Keypoints:
- Chouchou Lazare showcased raffia garments at a Paris fashion event
- The fibre has deep roots in Gabonese culture and spirituality
- The designer hopes raffia gains global recognition as Gabon’s cultural treasure
IN a modest studio in Libreville, strands of raffia hang in the sun, drying slowly before they are transformed into elaborate garments by Gabonese fashion designer Chouchou Lazare. From these natural palm fibres, the veteran designer has built a reputation for crafting distinctive pieces that celebrate Gabon’s cultural heritage.
The self-taught designer recently brought his signature raffia creations to Paris, where they featured at the Fashion Annual Show on February 28. The event, which for more than 25 years has celebrated African designers, honoured Lazare with an achievement award for his contribution to African fashion.
The recognition highlights a textile that has long been part of Gabon’s traditions but is now attracting attention on international runways.
Raffia at the centre of Lazare’s designs
Raffia, derived from palm leaves, has historically been associated with Gabonese nobility and village chiefs. Today it is also used in traditional weddings and in bwiti ceremonies, an Indigenous spiritual practice that connects communities with their ancestral traditions.
At his Libreville workshop, Lazare carefully arranges bunches of raffia fibres that will later be woven, braided or sewn into his garments.
‘This is raffia from Gabon. It is special, woven very finely, and it is a textile that deserves to be shown,’ Lazare told AFP.
The fibre appears throughout nearly every piece he designs. Some dresses feature raffia intricately braided into skirts, while others incorporate the material sewn or glued onto bustiers to create textured patterns.
Despite its versatility, Lazare deliberately avoids dyeing the fibres. Instead, he preserves the natural colour of raffia, emphasising its organic beauty and authenticity.
Inspired by family and tradition
Lazare’s journey into fashion began long before international recognition arrived. At nine years old, he began assisting his mother with sewing, helping the family make ends meet.
Without formal training, he gradually developed his craft through experimentation and determination. By his teenage years he had organised his first fashion show while still in high school.
Now in his 50s, the designer credits his mother and grandmother as the inspiration behind his work.
‘She was very tall; to me, she was like a queen,’ he said of his mother.
That image of regal strength continues to guide his creative vision. As he prepared his latest collection for Paris, Lazare said he imagined confident women who embrace their identity.
‘When I prepare my shows, I want to see queens, women who fully own who they are,’ he said.
From local craft to international recognition
Lazare’s dedication to raffia has steadily gained international attention. In 2002, he won first prize for fashion at the Saint-Etienne International Design Biennial in France, an early milestone that helped bring his work to a global audience.
More than two decades later, his designs were presented during a state visit to Gabon by French President Emmanuel Macron in November. A photograph of Lazare standing with Macron and Gabonese President Brice Oligui Nguema now hangs proudly in his studio.
He describes the encounter as ‘a great moment’ in his career.
Watching the leaders admire his raffia garments gave him renewed confidence in the value of the material.
‘When I saw their reactions to my creations, I felt like they were diamonds,’ he said.
Promoting Gabon’s cultural heritage
In Gabon, raffia is increasingly recognised as both a cultural symbol and a sustainable natural resource. Earlier this year, the country’s ministry of sustainable tourism and crafts highlighted the fibre on social media as an important element of Gabonese heritage.
According to the ministry, raffia contributes to the promotion of Gabonese and African culture while encouraging the preservation of natural resources.
Lazare shares that vision but believes the fabric should not be limited to a specific region or community.
‘It’s for everyone,’ he said.
Mentoring the next generation of designers
Beyond designing garments, Lazare is also helping shape the future of Gabon’s fashion industry. As president of the Association of Gabonese Stylists and Creators, he mentors emerging designers and promotes local craftsmanship.
Through training and collaboration, he hopes to build a stronger creative industry in Gabon while ensuring traditional materials remain part of contemporary fashion.
For Lazare, raffia represents far more than a design element.
He sees it as a symbol of cultural identity and artistic possibility.
His ambition now is to see the humble palm fibre recognised internationally as a defining treasure of Gabon’s heritage.
